Parts and Materials Needed:

2 ft. 3/8ths hose (Just to be sure) - 2  3/8ths ball valves (Home Depot) - 4  3/8ths to 3/8ths hose barb ends (I used brass but plastic would work) - 4  90 degree 3/8ths barbed both sides plastic fittings - 16  3/4 or 1/2 inch hose clamps (I used 3/4 but 1/2 might work - Teflon tape

Tools Needed:

Hack saw - standard screw driver (a 6 and a 12 inch), ratchet with a 10mm socket - various wrenches (to snug the barbs into the ball valve - Rags (soak up excess coolant - pliers (to take off OEM clamps)

The Project:

First, I got the valve and hose barb ends assembled with wrenches and Teflon tape.  I tightened them as much as I could to guarantee no leaks.  From here, I noticed that the barbed ends would be to long so I cut off a bit to make the valve unit shorter. (Due to limited space under TB)  You can see in the picture the before and after cut on the barbs. (Sorry for the close up fuzziness.)

Once you have both valves assembled with ends trimmed, you can remove the handles since there will not be enough room for them under the TB. Do not throw handles away since you will need to keep one around to change the system over in the wintertime. Also note, use right angles with the valve system. The handles have a built in stop mechanism and once you take off the handles it is possible to turn the valve too far thus allowing the coolant to pass by. Keep the valves in the open position to test the system later for leaks.

Now that the valves are ready, we can open up the hood.  I took the engine cover off (10mm socket and ratchet I believe) as well as the air resonator that connects to the TB and the top of the air box.  This was done just to make room to work under the TB.  Now that we have space to work in, locate the two hoses coming from the bottom of the TB to the engine.  Here you might have to use one of the screwdrivers to turn the OEM clamp around to get a set of pliers on to slide it down.  Once the hoses are removed catch any of the remaining coolant with rags so as not to get it all over your engine and drive way.  And don't throw the hoses away! You will need them.

The valve system uses many hose clamps, but they were necessary in order to get the proper angles. I wish there were less clamps since the clamps are areas for future leaks but there was nothing else I could do.  I would suggest to dry fit the valve system before tightening down all the hose clamps, this will also help you find the correct angles to tighten the hoses at.

To make the valved lines you will need to cut a 2-3 inch piece of hose which will connect the valve to the engine. I would suggest as short as possible while maintaining a good seal. Shorter the better due to space limitations. Cut another piece of hose for the other end and install one of the 90-degree fittings facing upward.  This is where I used the OEM hoses to come back towards the TB.  Cut another piece of hose and attach the other 90-degree fitting to the end.  Place this piece, with the 90 attached, to the line coming from the TB.  Now all you have to do is link the two pieces by attaching the last end of the OEM hose to the 90 degree fitting.  I found the line furthest from you when looking at it from the drivers side needed to be routed over and around a hose in order to fit right. You can see it in the picture.

That is how I got it to fit.

Here are some pictures of each individual valve from the side and top views. I hope that they help when trying to create the proper angles.

This is the valve closest to the fender.

Side

Top

And the other valve furthest from the driver side fender

Side

Top

Now go back and tighten all the hose clamps down, make sure they are snug and not too tight since the clamps can and will dig into the hose, which may create a possible leak in the future. Loosely fit the air resonator back on the TB and turn your car on to let the coolant system heat up.  Check your valve system for leaks and if it is all dry, you can turn your valves to the off position with the handle you kept from before. Tighten up the air resonator and air box cover as well as put the engine cover back on.  And there you have it, a system that works in the winter and the summer.

Good luck and happy GT'ing,

- PegcityGT